Updated: Sep 15
Servo, Receiver, ESC, and Battery Installation.
Rudder and Elevator Configuration:
Rotate the model upside down with the lower wing removed. Install the rudder and elevator servos into the servo tray. In the neutral servo position, both control horns should point toward each other and be exactly 90 degrees or perpendicular to the servo body. From this upside-down view, the servo on the right will control the rudder and the servo on the left will control the elevator. The two pushrods will cross over each other before exiting toward the rear of the fuselage. The marks on the pushrods represent the exit point at the rear.
In the image below the fabric is omitted for clarity. The elevator pushrod should exit the fuselage between the two upper stringers approximately 58 millimeters from the rear face of former F-1. The red ellipse represents the hole in the covering. This also happens to be a component to print called "fabricreinforce.stl" When covering the model start at the bottom first then cover the sides. Do not install the horizontal stabilizer permanently yet. Mark this spot and adhere this thin reinforcement to the inside of the covering fabric with CA glue. once bonded, you can cleanly cut the elliptical hole for a finished look with an X-acto knife.
Repeat this process for the rudder. the hole for the rudder pushrod should exit the fuselage between the middle and bottom stringer. The distance to the center of the hole from the back of former F-1 is 37 millimeters. Again, adhere the reinforcement to the inside of the fuselage fabric. with CA glue. The hole can now be cleanly cut with a sharp X-acto knife.
The aileron servos were covered in the upper wing construction section. Once the wing has been covered, the servo wire should run down the back of the center strut leg.
Note, the information below is relevant to model files prior to 01-05-21. If your purchase of this model is more recent than this date you will now have a hole for a female servo extension lead. For older iterations continue below:
The servo wire will then enter into the fuselage through the notch just on the inside of the rear strut mounting hole directly behind the wing attach screw hole as shown below.
This is a very tight fit so the servo plug may have to be temporarily removed to fish the wires through. On the images below there are small plastic tabs on the plug that hold the brass connectors in place. By carefully lifting up with a tiny tool, the wire can be backed out of the plug. Fish the wire through and then reconnect back to the same socket on the plug.
Wiring the ESC.
We recommend using an brushless electronic speed controller that has the capacity for up to four battery cells and contains a BEC circuit to power your radio equipment from your flight battery.
This plane was originally designed around a 3S battery that sat transversely directly behind the firewall in front of the elevator and rudder servos. The dimension of that pack are 103 mm x 34 mm x 23 mm. See image below.
Eventually I opted for a 4 cell pack for more horsepower. There was no longer room to run the battery transversely. A battery hook for a rubber band was added that is to be attached where an instrument panel would be. The 4s battery sits longitudinally on the servo bracket between both servos and is held in place by a rubber band from the holes in the servo bracket up to the battery hook. See image below. The four cell pack contributes a bit less to nose weight because of its orientation but having the extra oomph is more than worth it if you need to add a balancing nose weight. Note, I did not have to do this, but depending upon the length of your pack and weight of the model this is a possibility.